April 27—ALBUQUERQUE — You can’t just choose to dress like Kelly Grant.
The 60-year-old resident of Ramah, in western New Mexico — an Omaha tribal member originally from Macy, Neb. – said badges like his had to be earned.
“You have to pay your way,” Grant said Friday as he watched the dancers’ grand entrance to the Gathering of Nations in Albuquerque. “You have to make sacrifices.”
The river otter turban, for example, signifies leadership in politics, war, or community. A U.S. Army veteran who served from 1986 to 1994, Grant said the helmet references his military service as well as that of all male relatives on his father’s side, and some on his mother’s side – a heritage of three generations dating back to the First World War.
The bear scratches his neck? These symbolize hunting prowess, although Grant admits that he did not kill a grizzly bear, now endangered, to catch it as the men of his tribe did in the past – always in the presence of a witness to corroborate it. (Grant hunts mostly elk and deer). And the flowers that adorn his leggings, vest and apron keep alive the memory of the concoction of herbs, stems, roots and flowers that the men of Omaha drank to maintain energy during war parties.
“We were the first to invent Red Bull,” Grant said with a laugh.
There were plenty of jeans and T-shirts at Expo New Mexico this weekend during the annual Gathering of Nations, a more than 40-year-old powwow that draws tribal members from across the country. But mixed in with the crowd – and towering over the arena floor – was a vibrant array of feathers, furs, beadwork, patchwork and native regalia embroidery that can have many meanings. For many like Grant, regalia can mark a deep connection to history and a person’s own journey. The themes, designs and colors chosen may have significance for particular tribes and regions. Creating badges can be a creative outlet and a family activity.
Whether very traditional or more modern and tailored, Crystal Williams, vice chairwoman of the Coushatta Tribe in Elton, Louisiana, said the regalia is put together thoughtfully and intentionally.
“Each piece is handmade with love,” said Williams, who serves on the advisory board of the Indigenous Fashion Collective, a group that will debut May 2-5 during Native Fashion Week in Santa Fe.
Personality, tributes
Shai Greymountain, Williams’ daughter, raided her mother’s closet to watch the traditional Miss Indian World talent show on Thursday night — but only for the burgundy blouse. Greymountain, 17, paired it with a ribbon skirt she made herself – the third she’s tried since she started learning to sew from her grandmother. The rainbow hues of her skirt represent her favorite colors.
“Ribbon skirts are generally a reflection of personality,” Greymountain said.
Greymountain also sported a pearl crown that qualified her as the eldest princess of Coushatta, a title she will hold until June after winning the pageant in her community last year. The helmet is…
